Monday, December 17
Busy Busy Busy week
Wednesday night was dinner at Addis in Dar - a high end ehtiopian restaurant - for a friend's birthday. The food was good but even more expensive than I expected... this place was expensive for a restaurant back home. Had a nice time though and went out to Karaoke night at Irish Pub after for a while.
Thursday night we had tickets to a play. It was a pantomime modernized sleeping beauty. Quite entertaining.
I spent much of Friday running around the city with Cathryn trying to find a few items we needed... it's a little frustrating how hard it can be to find items that I could get in ten minutes back home. Fortunately Cathryn has a car so we made pretty good time and were able to check a lot of places. In the afternoon I had a meeting with Amref - where I will be volunteering - to discuss what I can do for them. Getting started is turning out to be a lengthy process but I think it'll be an interesting opportunity. After that we went to see the Golden Compass which I was really looking forward to and was so excited that it was coming out here. The movie was okay... it was fun to see but somehow wasn't as epic as I was hoping. And after that I went out with a friend who was leaving town.
Saturday I can barely remember what I did during that day... I know there was cooking involved. That night we had Christmas dinner at a friends house. Something about a potluck in 30 degree weather just doesn't feel like christmas. Though we did have some fine christmas music going on in the background including Alvin and the Chipmunks!
Sunday and Monday were nice and quiet and tomorrow I have to deal with my resident permit and pick up Chelsea from the airport. Almost vacation time! and this weekend we will head out to Zanzibar for a couple of nights to get a quick taste of the place and meet up with Natasha and Jen who will also be out there this weekend.
Wednesday, December 12
Monday, December 10
Camping in Mikumi
Tuesday, December 4
sick
Camping, attempt #2, starts on Friday. fingers crossed.
my new zero tolerance policy for mozzies was going really well for a few days but has since collapsed completely. I just can't seem to keep the damn things off me. apparently I need to eat more garlic. Will keep trying though I can't imagine camping is going to help the situation much.
can't think of other news at the moment. I do have more photos to post (a good one of my campus monkeys!!) but haven't had a chance to do it... hopefully early next week I can put them up with camping photos.
Monday, November 26
update
I have to admit, in the last week or so I have taken some serious losses in the war against mosquito bites. I have at least ten million bites on each foot and thousands more spread elsewhere. I got a bite near my knee while wearing full length jeans! How does that even happen? Between that and a few days with a minor stomach bug, things were looking pretty miserable for a while. But I am regrouping and getting ready for round 27 and hoping the 26-0 record will start to turn around because I can't handle the itchiness any more! I'm considering creating a full body mosquito net outfit that will just go permanently over my regular clothing. The search for 100% DEET begins...
Friday, November 9
Bagamoyo and SUSHI!
Bagamoyo
The day after the accident I'd been planning to go to Bagamoyo for two days with Marika... so with very little sleep, I packed my bag and we took off for the weekend. Ended up staying for half a day and coming back. Not because it wasn't nice but because it really wasn't that much of a hassle to get there so we'd rather just go again another time and we were both feeling tired and lazy ( I blame the massive headache I still had). But we had a really nice visit and even found a local to give us a little tour around - the guy teaches wood carving and has offered to come to Dar for a lesson some time... Really want to do it and the lesson itself isn't so expensive but the cost of the wood is quite steep so haven't decided yet.
Bagamoyo was the capital of colonial German rule in East Africa and a very important trade port in its day (in particular- slave trading). It's an hour north of Dar by Dalla Dalla (and they drive FAST). The architecture has colonial as well as arab and indian influence though the buildings have not been kept up very well. There are quite a few areas to wander and Marika and I really only saw a small part of what there is on this trip - preferring to spend some time enjoying the beach which is now a centre for boat construction. I most enjoyed just walking around and taking in the most vibrant colors nature has to offer - every color of flower and even the leaves were an amazing shade of green.
Sushi
Yesterday I had sushi for dinner... highlight of my month for sure! They don't have any salmon here which I'm quite devastated about but the tuna sashimi was pretty darn good and they had a fantastic spicy tuna roll. I even liked the california rolls. My mouth is already watering for more.... mmmm
Sunday, November 4
Eventful weekend
Wednesday, October 31
Halloween
Thursday, October 25
Order of the Day
6:30am Wake up to the sound of the auto-mechanic outside my window. Sometimes he starts at 6. Nothing like the sound of engines to start the day. Sometimes I am able to fall asleep again after a little while (with the help of my ear plugs)
8am Wake up for real. Have some tea and bread and some kind of fruit or veggie. Take my anti-malaria pill, multi-vitamin and Omega-3 supplement. Fill up my water bottle for the day.
8:45 Marika and I head to the University. Usually we leave late but this is when we should leave. We catch a tsh (20 cents).
9am Start work. and by start work, I mean turn on the computer and sit down at my desk. Mostly work is checking my email and messing around online (as I'm doing right now, for example). Occasionally I have reports to write and submit to the CIH in Toronto. Last week I wrote a funding proposal and this week we met with the funder and found out they won't fund us until they've restructured the funding system. (Apparently in the past funding for the Universities has gone through the Ministry of Health - because TACAIDS is a government agency - and the Ministry of Health has done something with the money that didn't include actually giving it to the University so now they want to restructure the system to ensure we actually get the money... which is good... but it's going to take time so for now = no money). I have also been meeting with representatives from various student groups to try to set up some kind of coordination of their activities. Some good ideas came out of those meetings and I hope to keep busy by pursuing some of them, like a Secondary School Outreach program. I also have to write articles for our program's publication.
12:45pm Lunch. Staff at the health clinic gets free lunch (I'm guessing it's because there isn't enough staff to cover breaks and since they bring food down for the patients anyway). Someone from the cafeteria brings down a few dishes of something and we get to eat it. I'm not technically staff here but my supervisor is and he doesn't eat here so I get his portion. Lunch time varies slightly and it's important to get there before things run out so there is a bit of a push/shove process. I can usually smell the food from my office when it arrives. Lunch consists of rice and either roasted 1/4 chicken or beef in a red sauce and sometimes some beans or cooked banana or veggies (the same kind every time). So, not a whole lot of variety but it's free and it's here. There are many different places to eat on campus... most serve the same food and are packed with students or faculty around lunch time. I tend to eat in my office and sometime go for a walk around outside for a bit.
5pm Quitting time. By five it's usually cool enough to walk home without working up too much of a sweat. Takes around 20-25 minutes. After work, I will usually go home and change. This is also when I'm most likely to shower because I'm hot and don't mind the cold water so much. Sometimes I will go to the grocery store to pick up a few things.
6pm I usually have an hour or two before Marika comes home. I spend that time reading or watching CNN (which I get at home). Sometimes I do some Sudoku puzzles.
7:30/8pm Dinner time. Marika and I usually have dinner together. Sometimes we cook at home. If we go out, we usually go to Euro - a restaurant around the corner from us. Meals are much the same as what I described for lunch although they also have a really good beef stew. They also have burgers and samosas on the menu but I have yet to try them. Other options include a few places for chipsi and mishkaki (fries and beef skewers). Before going out I change into longer clothing and apply ample mosquito repellent.... I swear those things hunt me down.
9pm After dinner Marika and I often sit around talking. Often Emmanuel will stop by for a while to visit and teach us some new kiswahili words (and test us on the old ones). Sometimes I watch a movie on my laptop.
10 - 12 Depending how tired I am, I'll read for a while and go to bed. But first I wash my feet, re-apply mosquito spray and re-adjust mosquito net. I also often spend a little time killing any mosquitoes I can find. It makes for a more fulfilling day, I think.
And there you have it, a day in the life of Nicole. Next time we examine... the weekend!
Monday, October 22
Finally... some photos
On campus (left)
AIDS
Saturday night I was out having dinner with Marika and we were approached by a guy who decided to sit with us (this happens A LOT). We start talking and it turns out that he is starting now as a HIV Peer Educator... a program included in the funding proposal I have just written. So we start chatting about the program and (keep in mind he's clearly had a few drinks) our new friend starts talking about AIDS.
He starts talking about how everyone learns about using condoms but what does that even accomplish when they sit out in 30 degree temperatures all the time. In his opinion they must be completely ineffective. He's also convinced that in developed countries we don't use condoms.
We also spoke about HIV testing. I know that getting people to get tested is hard but he was quite convincing about his anti-testing views. He said that if he finds out he has HIV, he knows he will die of AIDS and what's the point of spending money on post-secondary school. Also, he said families abandon those who are infected so that you are forced to work and take care of yourself. And if you don't have sufficient access to nutritious foods then the treatment isn't going to be very effective anyway. So, he has not been tested and does not plan to be tested.
Keeping in mind that this young man has been selected as a peer educator (granted he hasn't gone through his training yet), I am feeling discouraged about the effectiveness of these programs.
Aside from writing funding proposals, I am also meeting with student groups to try and coordinate world AIDS day events. The people I have spoken with are very enthusiastic about putting together something different this year and would like to focus on more positive messages about AIDS. Of course, I have no funding for anything so I am hoping that the groups are able to find funding and are willing to use some of it towards a collective element (I want to put together a program listing all the different events to distribute to the students.)
Also working on coordinating an event to promote HIV testing (there will be mobile testing units set up) but it's supposed to be happening in a couple of weeks and the budget was submitted so late and hasn't been approved yet.
anyway, that is what I have been and will be doing.
pictures to come. soon. I promise. tonight...unless the power goes off again.
Friday, October 19
Monkeys, Religion. and other musings
Religion is an interesting topic here. Everyone is religious, the only question is "Christian or Mulsim"? A tough question to answer for me as, first, I'm Jewish, and second, I'm not religious. So if I respond with "I'm Jewish", so far, I either get told about how I'm of the chosen people or I get asked quite random questions about Judaism. Once I was asked to teach someone how Jews pray. When I said I didn't pray they called me a liar. seriously. After several challenging conversations about being Jewish, I decided once to try to say that I'm not religious. They kinda just stared blankly at me. So finally I just said I'm Jewish and that seemed less confusing but they still looked at me like they thought I was lying. Everyone I've spoken to also seems to think that being Jewish and Israeli are interchangable.
Working in a health clinic is rather distracting. There are constantly sick people sounds... like vomiting, crying, occasionally screaming. and the place smells like disinfectant a lot of the time. We are supposed to be moving to our own office in the next few weeks. Should be a nice change except that I will be sharing a large office with my supervisor... I'll have to make sure I set up my desk so the monitor is facing away from him or no more random internet use.
I've been a little sick that last couple of days. Just a bad cold but it kept me up all night sniffling so I was pretty tired. Finally got a good night sleep tonight so am feeling much better. Usually I get woken up at 6:30 by the neighbor who seems to be an automechanic/fridge refurbishre and who likes to work with power tools between 6:30 and 7:30 in the morning.
Work has really been picking up this week so I've been quite busy with, hopefully, useful stuff. Will write more about what I'm doing next time.
Again: haven't been able to upload photos but I'm working on it.
Monday, October 15
quick mouse update
yuck.
Having problems uploading photos but I promise they will come as soon as possible.
Sunday, October 14
Weekend on the Beach
I finally got out of the office long enough to enjoy the city a little. Saturday I got a tour of the neighborhood from a friend who lives/works where I live (there are a few flats that are rented out and then the main house where he lives with the owner). He took us through the smaller routes around the area and then to a nice quiet beach that's a little out of the way and so not so busy. Marika and I weren't expecting to be out so long and so didn't think of sunscreen. oops. But we weren't fully sunburnt... yet.
Sunday we went out to Bongoyo Island which has a really lovely beach and was not very busy. It was quite expensive to get out there and then we had to pay a park entry fee but it was a nice day at the end of which I must admit I have received my first ever sunburn. Just a little patch on one shoulder. I put on sunscreen and was in partial shade most of the time but the malaria meds make you sensitive to the sun so I guess it was enough. But it is nice to have a tan at last! I did take photos over the weekend and hopefully this evening I will get to the internet cafe to upload them.
I neglected to comment on food in my last post... Though the food is usually pretty good, there is very very little variety. A standard meal is rice or ugali with meat of some kind (always prepared the same way as far as I can tell). Often there is a little bit of veggies with it, sometimes some beans or cooked banana. Sometimes there is Pilau or Biryani which is basically the same thing but with flavored rice. The other option is chipsi and mishkaki (french fries and beef on a skewer)which can be excellent but sometimes the beef is very over-cooked from sitting on a grill until purchased. Fortunately, almost any type of food can be purchased so cooking at home adds a little variety to my meals. And there are lots of cheap, fresh fruits and veggies to buy so I'm trying to inject some health into my diet that way.
Thanks everyone who has made comments... it's nice to hear your thoughts (though maybe not the one about the mice... which, by the way, seem to be doing very well)
Thursday, October 11
First Impressions
I get asked a lot by both locals and friends/family at home: "How do you find Tanzania?"
So, here's how I find Tanzania so far...
Dark. I'm finding it hard to get used to the daylight hours here. Because we are equatorial (only 6 degrees south) and have no daylight savings time, it is daylight here from approx. 6am to 6pm all year round (with maybe an extra half hour of dawn/dusk on either end). Seeing as there are no streetlights (not in the areas I've been to so far) and no city lights reflecting of cloud cover or any of that, it's really quite dark by 6:30. And for me that means my body starts to think it's late and by 10 it's hard to convince my body to stay awake. Also, with getting home from work around 5:30, this doesn't leave much daytime to wander around and I'm not yet so comfortable walking around alone after dark so for that I wait for my roommate.
Dusty. Though the main roads are paved here the shoulder of the road is dirt and there is also a lot of road construction (I'm assured that no progress has been made since my predecessor arrived a year ago) so there is a lot of dust being blown into the air by cars. It really hurts my eyes sometimes. And at night, when it's dark, the headlights stream through the dust and you can only see dust and silhouettes of people walking on the side of the road. It's really neat looking and I'm hoping to take a photo but obviously it's hard to get a good picture when it's dark and the light is moving.
Despite a few rainy days last week, the weather here has been good. The high has been just under 30 degrees but there is often a nice breeze and sometimes some clouds so it feels much cooler. So far it hasn't been too humid either. However, everyone keeps telling me that we are entering the rainy season so it is supposed to get hotter and more humid. Interestingly, the descriptions people give me of the expected weather over the next few months is quite different from the climate charts I've seen so I'll have to wait and see.
Other than that, I'm finding that, not surprisingly, a lot of people like to talk to Mzungu (means European but is used for all white people, possibly all foreigners) so you get a lot of people saying hi (mostly in Swahili) all the time. The children are cute because it seems to take them a while to get up the nerves to say hi so often I'll hear them yell "Hello!" several moments after I've walked by. The constant barrage of greetings is quite tiring as there are numerous greetings in Swahili and there is a correct response to each (you can't just say hi back) so it takes me a few moments before I can respond.
In other news, just when the battle against the household bugs seemed to be progressing (we've cleaned and sprayed and everything that needs to be sealed in a container is sealed reducing the bug population to a very acceptable level), it turns out we have a mouse. possibly mice. And our new housemate got into the cupboard last night and gnawed holes into various food packages. Thankfully the fruit and veggies are all kept in the fridge now and we were able to salvage the rice as it had only a very small hole in the bag.
Sunday, October 7
Settling in
Anyway, my home is quite comfortable and well located. I have a great (but slightly overpriced) grocery store, several atms, a movie theatre and excellent internet cafe within a five minute walk and it's only a 20 minute walk (or 5 minute bus) to work. There are currently two of us living in a four bedroom house with a lovely dining room, sitting room, kitchen and a private bathroom for every room. We have thoroughly cleaned the kitchen and have started to do some cooking there. Blackouts are quite frequent but we don't really need electricity so much anyway. I am working very hard on the swahili and have managed to learn basic greetings and numbers so far. Everyone seems very eager to teach me and I feel completely useless without it so I hope to become mildly conversant fairly quickly.
The first few days of work went by okay. My supervisor was invited at the last minute to a conference in Liberia so much of his time went to making arrangements and then he will be gone all of this week. It took me until now to adjust to the time difference too so I wasn't much use. I am focusing now and making arrangements for a big event to happen sometime in the next few weeks in which students and faculty at the university will be invited to a day with some speakers and entertainment and where HIV testing sites will be set up. I have serious questions about the possibility of success for this event but it's hard to know without knowing the community and what will motivate them to come out to a weekend event. Friday I was asked to sit down with a couple of members of the student government to figure out a budget for the event. Like I have any idea what tent rentals cost here!!!
Will take some photos today and post them next time I'm online... internet connection at the internet cafe is much better than at work so I'll have to do it here.
Wednesday, October 3
Arrival
Tuesday, September 25
Training
This is where I will be working (the University of Dar es Salaam):
View Larger Map
isn't technology cool?!? The map is fully interactive so zoom on in and check out my new neighborhood. I guess the training wasn't entirely useless...
the anglo-crew: